The creaking floorboards, the flurry of activity, the muffled voices in the hallway all had me at the edge of my seat, waiting for that much anticipated knock on the door. When would they come? What would they send down? Would it be sweet? Would it be savoury?
As a child, the waiting period between our upstairs neighbours settling in to their vacation flat and sending us exotic, edible delights, seemed like an eternity. Why is something other than your mother’s cooking so appealing to children? And yet when we grow up, all we want is to have our food taste “just like Mom used to make.” My mother was an excellent cook but still, I waited impatiently for the neighbours upstairs to send down their delicacies. And maybe that’s it, it was different food and as a youngster, and unlike many other youngsters, I loved everything and I loved variety. It’s only now in my old age that I find I am more picky; smell and taste challenged.
The first rap on the door had me jumping up from my usual perch on the sofa watching TV (after all my homework was done, of course. I happened to be a big swot) With great anticipation I would open the door, waiting to see what was displayed on the large tray balanced precariously on the shoulders of the maid. Our neighbours were very generous people. They never sent down a solitary dish of food, it was always a tray with an array of dishes filled to the brim with great smelling, steaming hot Gulf goodies.
My favourite part was uncovering these dishes to find what treasures lay beneath. The aromas were always a good indication but the thrill of lifting up the cover was always a special moment. Secretly, I always hoped for certain favourite dishes of mine. As I would uncover the dishes, I would hope to find my favourite syrup soaked Arabic doughnuts; Luqaimat, or the succulent, fall off the bone lamb, redolent with warm Middle Eastern spices nestled amongst fragrant Basmati rice, or this stick to your bones, homey, Harees, a wheat and meat porridge; perfectly sticky and glistening with ghee.
There was absolutely nothing very special about this porridge, no specific herb or array of spices that set this apart and I believe it was and is the simplicity that makes it so appealing. I just remember the pleasant stickiness of the wheat once it is ground and I remember the taste, especially of the clarified butter that added the best flavour of all.
This dish is homey and perfect for the fall and winter temperatures. I made this during Ramadan and it was perfect in the summer too. It is comfort food. It can be made with chicken, lamb or beef. The neighbours made it with lamb, I make it with beef (my lamb issue and all) or chicken.
You could very easily make this in the slow cooker and I have made it like that before. I also like to use my pressure cooker when I don’t want to wait (just don’t use the pressure cooker for the rice, makes a BIG mess).
My familiarity with Harees came from my Kuwaiti neighbours. I know that the Emirati also make a similar dish with their blend of spices. I am quite sure almost all countries in the Middle East have a similar wheat porridge, and it may be a little different but this one is what I remember from my neighbours.
Indian and Pakistani cuisine have their own savoury wheat porridge known as Haleem. Of course, here the major flavours are Indian with cinnamon, cumin, coriander, chilli powder, cloves; once again warm, comfort food spices. Haleem is also served with lots of melted butter and fried onions.
Calories: 3924
Fat: 199g
- 2 cups/420g wheat berries, soaked overnight in 6 cups water
- 1 cup/200g rice
- 12 cups/3L water
- 2 large onions, sliced fine
- 2 teaspoons Bharat, an Arabic spice mix
- 2 lbs/1KG beef cubes, lamb or chicken
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 4 cardamom pods
- 2 teaspoons garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon turmeric
- 8 tablespoons ghee or oil and melted butter plus extra for spooning on top (oil from frying the onions works too)
- Harissa, Sriracha or other hot sauce for garnishing
- BAHARAT
- 1 teaspoon black peppercorn
- 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
- 1 small cinnamon stick, coarsely chopped
- ½ teaspoon whole cloves
- ½ teaspoon ground allspice
- 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
- 1 teaspoon cardamom pods
- ½ whole nutmeg, grated
- To make the Baharat: Place all the spices in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and grind until a fine powder is formed. Store in an airtight container, where it will keep for 8 weeks.
- Cook rice and wheat until tender in a large stockpot, about 2 hours (or use your pressure cooker, for the wheat) keep aside
- Cook meat with spices, cardamom, cinnamon stick, turmeric and garlic until tender.
- I use my pressure cooker to get the meat nice and tender in about 30 minutes.
- Fry onions till golden brown, keep some aside for garnish
- Add meat, Baharat, cayenne pepper, green chillies and fried onions to the cooked wheat and rice mixture.
- Process the mixture in batches in a food processor or blender until smooth (won't be totally smooth)
- Add water if you want it a bit more runny or to process in a blender,
- When all the mixture is puréed, add clarified butter and mix through on low heat to heat through and for the mixtures to meld, about 10-15 minutes.
- When serving, pour more clarified butter over the top and serve with a dollop of Harissa, fried onions, cilantro and can have more Bharat spice mix available to sprinkle on top if desired.
The amount of spices, garlic and consistency can be adjusted.
Taste and add more spices, salt or pepper.
Onions are a wonderful garnish and almost a necessity.
Melted butter is also a must.
So, with autumn here and winter on its way, make up a pot of this very warm and comforting wheat porridge and enjoy it by the fire place. Talking about fire places, it is already beginning to get so cold here in the evenings and I am resisting the urge to turn on the heating! Normally, my favourite electric bill is from the spring and fall because I don’t have to turn on the air or the heat! How’s the weather where you are?
Wishing you all a great week ahead, enjoy your Sunday! I’ll be watching The Denver Broncos go 4-0 and baking up a storm (so I can keep the house warm without turning on the heat 🙂 )
You’ve reminded me how much I love this! It;s called Hareesh in Saudi and I agree that it’s a complete comfort food, just like Haleem. This is just about the right time of the year to cook up a huge pot.
Needful Things recently posted..Of Friends and Granola
I agree! When the weather gets cooler I love stuff like this, haleem and harees, soups and stews!
Mmm… looks like an awesome morning meal. Thanks!
Kate recently posted..Better Tasting and Healthier Meals
This porridge sounds like it would be full of comforting savoury flavours! I love your food memories from childhood too.
saucy gander recently posted..What’s in a name? Cucidati and X cookies
Oh, this does look good – I love the little slick of melted butter around the edge of the bowl… looks so good! Good, homey food indeed! I’ve never heard of wheat berries… off to Google them now I think. Looks like a great thing to have on a cold winter’s evening!
Charles recently posted..Whole Roasted Trout with Turmeric and Piri Piri
With me its the other way around Nazneen…my palate has become more receptive to those flavors which I hate as a kid or totally avoided earlier.
Just the other day I was watching a cookery show where I watched the Pakistani Haleem recipe. I have never tried this dish and looking at all those amazing flavors, i need to try it soon. thanks for sharing 🙂
easyfoodsmith recently posted..SUN DRIED TOMATO & ROSEMARY CHEESE BISCOTTI
Thank you, Taruna! Haleem is a very big Ramadan thing in Hyderabad, India. They make some of the best haleem in the old city, from what my dad tells me!This is similar in texture but totally different in flavour and spice. Hope you get to try some soon!
I am a haleem fan, though I can never make some successfully. A friend sent over some baharat from Israel a while ago, and I have been thinking of ways to use it. This would probably be the ideal.
I adore your stories 🙂 Such lovely neighbors….
minnie@thelady8home recently posted..Fish and chaps
What an interesting story followed by mouth watering food! I can almost smell the aroma of the spices in the delicious dish. Hope you had a great weekend Nazneen!
Sugar et al recently posted..Lamb Massaman Curry
Simple is so perfect sometimes, definitely in this case 😀
Delicious!
Cheers
CCU
CCU recently posted..Class of 2013
This looks so interesting and unique — i’m loving all the spices! since I’m a huge lover for savory and sweet porridges, need to try this soon 🙂
thanks for sharing and hope your week is off to a great start!!
Kiran @ KiranTarun.com recently posted..Coconut Zucchini Cacao Nib Cookies
Nazneen , I really enjoy reading your posts, you have such beautiful writing style that you can write a novel. I am not familiar with Harees but I once tried Khichra/ haleem which is also made with berries and meat. The dish looks lovely.
This looks very interesting. Thanks for sharing. I must try it 🙂 Preparation reminds me a little bit of haleem, which I love. Does it taste similar?
I have never heard of a wheat berry before! This porridge sounds like a middle eastern/indian version of congee, which is one of the most comforting foods ever 🙂 How absolutely divine! What I wouldn’t do for neighbours like that! Are you still in touch with that family?
Jas@AbsolutelyJas recently posted..Got Milk?
What fabulous memories you conjure up. How fabulous to have all those wonderful dishes dropped at the door. This wheat porridge looks so good, very comforting, perfect for the changing season. GG
glamorous glutton recently posted..Silent Sunday – Vintage Kitchenware
I love food memories! And I love this dish – it sounds totally wonderful. Really nice light on the pictures, too. Good stuff – thanks.
john@kitchenriffs recently posted..Curried Green Tomatoes
Thank you John! I hope you get a chance to make it sometime. Thank you for the lovely comment on my photos!!
There’s something about simple dishes that is really quite comforting. I am not so familiar with harees but I would like to try this sometime.
Peachy @ The Peach Kitchen recently posted..Truffle Bacon Popcorn
I totally agree Peachy! Simple dishes definitely have their place in foodie land. Thanks Peachy!
It is interesting how we crave for certain foods and in certain situations.
I’ve had haleem but this one is very new to me. I’m just trying to imagine how it might taste, intrigued.
Enjoy Sunday my dear and cook up a storm.
Ash-foodfashionparty recently posted..BAKED MANGO CHICKEN DRUMMETTES
It’s very similar to haleem but with ME spices. It’s really good and if you like haleem, you will like this too. Thanks Asha xx
It sounds like you grew up with the most wonderful generous and kind and thoughtful neighbours who could also cook! I haven’t heard of this dish before but it sounds fantastic and it must have incredible flavours with all those spices xx
Hotly Spiced recently posted..Scoop Wholefoods Master Class in Making Peanut Butter
Thanks Charlie, I did grow up with some awesome neighbours and friends. This dish is lovely, if you get a chance next winter I hope you make it!
another great one for fall! And I love your cookery in this one 🙂
Thanks Francesca 🙂
You know, I love your writing style. It always draws me in, and it is very visual. Its like I can see it.
Beautiful post, and lovely dish.
Have a wonderful weekend.
*kisses* H
Heavenly recently posted..Tea and Crumpets in The Corner
Thank you so much my lovely! Can’t tell you what that means to me! As somebody who always focused on science, my writing was always technical and to the point. I feel like I don’t write as well as others and I try hard to change that! Your comment means the world to me! xxxx